Released on = November 23, 2006, 4:07 pm

Press Release Author = Dr. Laurence Magne

Industry = Environment

Press Release Summary = From the desk of Laurence Magne, author of
www.first-aquarium-secrets.com

Press Release Body = There are two categories of algae of concern to aquarists:
"good" and "bad". Good algae is present in small quantities, is indicative of good
water quality and is easily kept in check by algae eating fish or simple removal
during routine maintenance. This algae is a natural consequence of having a
container of water with nutrients and a light source.

Bad algae is either an indicator of bad water quality or is a type of algae that
tends to overtake the tank and ruin the aesthetics the aquarist is trying to
achieve. The label of "bad" is entirely subjective. For example, one type of green,
hair-like algae is considered a plague by some American aquarists, yet is cultivated
by European aquarists as a valuable addition to most tanks, serving as a dietary
supplement for the fish.

Blue-green, slime or smear algae
It grows rapidly in blue-green, slimy sheets. It spreads rapidly over almost
everything and usually indicates poor water quality. However, blue-green algae can
fix nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums with extremely low nitrates. It will
smother and kill plants.
It can be physically removed, but this is not a viable long term solution as the
aquarium conditions are still favorable for it and it will return quickly. Treatment
with 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate
blue-green algae.

Brown algae
It forms in soft brown clumpy patches. Usually indicates a lack of light or an
excess of silicates. Increased light levels will usually make it disappear. Easily
removed by wiping the glass or siphon vacuuming the affected area.
Green water
Green unicellular algae will sometimes reproduce so rapidly that the water will turn
green. This is commonly called an "algae bloom" and is usually caused by too much
light like direct sunlight. An algae bloom can be removed by filtering with micron
cartridges or diatom filters. UV sterilizers can prevent the bloom in the first
place. Green water is very useful in the raising of daphnia and brine shrimp.

Film algae
It grows on the aquarium glass and forms a thin haze. It can be easily removed by
wiping the glass. It is considered normal with the higher light levels needed for
good plant growth.

Spot algae
It grows in thin, hard, circular, bright green spots, usually on the aquarium glass
but also on plants under high light conditions. On acrylic aquariums, use a cloth
pad or a gentle scouring pad like a cosmetic "Buff-Puff" and a lot of elbow grease.
On glass tanks, scraping with a razor blade is most effective. You will find plenty
of useful hints on keeping algae under control in the book First Aquarium Secrets.

Fuzz algae
It grows mostly on plant leaves as separate, short (2-3mm) strands. It is considered
normal. It might be a less "virulent" form of "beard" algae. It can be easily
controlled with algae eaters such as black mollies, Octocinclus, Peckoltia and
Siamese algae eaters.

Beard algae
It grows on plant leaves and is bright green. Individual strands have a very fine
texture but it grows in thick patches and looks just like a green beard. It grows up
to 4 cm. This does not indicate bad water quality but grows very fast and overtakes
the tank, making it a "bad" alga. It can be eliminated with Simazine.

Hair algae
It grows in bright green clumps in the gravel, around the base of plants like
Echinodorus and around mechanical objects. It has a coarser texture than "beard
algae". Hair algae tends to form matted clumps. Individual strands can get to 5 cm
or more. Remove mechanically by twirling a toothbrush in it.

Thread algae
Grows in long, thin strands up to 30 cm or more. Tends toward a dull green color
(hard to tell because it is so thin). Usually indicates an excess of iron (> 0.15
ppm). Easily removed with a toothbrush like hair algae.

Staghorn algae
Looks like individual strands of hair algae but tends to grow in single branching
strands like a deer antler and is grey-green. It seems to grow mostly on tank
equipment near the surface. Difficult to remove mechanically. Soak affected
equipment in a 25% solution of household bleach and water to remove it.

Brush algae
This grows in feathery black tufts 2-3 mm long and tends to collect on slower
growing leaves like Anubias, some Echinodorus and other wide leaf plants. Also tends
to collect on mechanical equipment. Remove and discard the affected leaves.
Equipment can be soaked in a 25% bleach solution, then scrubbed to remove the dead
algae. Siamese Algae Eaters are known to eat this algae and can keep it in check.

Happy aquarium, free of algae.
Laurence
Visit www.first-aquarium-secrets.com.



Web Site = http://www.first-aquarium-secrets.com

Contact Details = 1030 Denman Street, Vancouver, BC, v6g2m6, Canada